Both the Tropical Hardwood Epoxy and the Oak and Teak Glue are suitable for construction and repair of speaker cabinets, wood tools, sporting goods, and musical instruments. Both will glue any oily hardwood, as well as softer woods.

There are certain differences between the two which, if understood, can lead to the best usage of each.

Both are viscous systems, about 10,000-20,000 centipoises mixed viscosity (thicker than honey). Once mixed, Tropical Hardwood Epoxy is workable for about 4 hours at 68° F/20° C, will be fully cured in about 2 days at 68° F/20° C or 5 to 6 days at 50° F/10° C, and does not cure well below that temperature.

The Oak and Teak Glue is designed to cure well at temperatures as low as 28° F/-2° C. It is a toughened system with higher strength in thick glue lines, somewhat less flexibility, and a higher softening temperature. Once mixed it is workable for about an hour at 68° F/20° C and will be essentially cured over night. Cold weather slows down the curing, but even in freezing weather it will fully cure (although it may take a week or more).

For high stress glue joints with hardwoods, such as guitar necks or bridge work, the Oak and Teak Glue is more appropriate. For glue joints less likely to fail when accidentally exposed to high temperature, the Oak and Teak Glue is better. For gluing thin sections of softer woods, where more fiexibility is appropriate (so that the glue joint properties are more similar to the wood) the Tropical Hardwood Epoxy is preferred. For joints in tools or sporting goods subject to mechanical shock or vibration, the Tropical Hardwood Epoxy is preferable.

For joints which must be capable of disassembly, the Tropical Hardwood Epoxy is preferable as it becomes rather weak at 150° - 175° F and a hot air gun may soften the joint sufficiently.

Both products mix one to one by volume and the cured properties are forgiving of slight mixing ratio errors.

Neither product has a shelf-life limit, but on prolonged exposure to atmospheric humidity the A component may grow lumps. If that happens the material should not be used, but discarded. This usually only happens when the container is left unsealed for months.

Both products, when fully cured, are fully compatible with varnish or lacquer finishes, while other adhesives such as aliphatic resins, may not be.